Japanese designer Yamamoto plays with complex layers and volumes at Paris Fashion Week

There were no accessories other than wire hats on grunge hairstyles. There were passages of tucked skirts and warm jackets, puffer coats and draped shirts, followed up by models wearing to close the show a pile of knitted garments topped with umbrella hats made of wool.

True to its codes of draping techniques, layering and unfinished looks, Yohji Yamamoto's autumn and winter collection displayed Friday in Paris showcased busy designs with lace skirts, shredded garments and inflated dresses. The show opened with a succession of blue denim jackets over layers of fluid tunics and skirts.

Models strutted under the fresco ceiling of the French capital's Hotel de Ville wearing mostly black but two head-to-toe white looks stood out with asymmetrical blazer, ruffled skirt with raw edge details and sneakers. There were no accessories other than wire hats on grunge hairstyles.

There were passages of tucked skirts and warm jackets, puffer coats and draped shirts, followed up by models wearing to close the show a pile of knitted garments topped with umbrella hats made of wool.