From skin cells to sea life: The double threat of microplastics in beauty products

While ingestion and inhalation remain the most studied exposure routes for microplastics, the authors argue that dermal contact, especially from daily cosmetic use, is an underexplored yet highly relevant pathway. Given the cumulative nature of microplastic exposure from multiple sources, the dermatological effects may be part of a larger systemic health burden.

Tiny plastic particles hiding in everyday beauty products could be damaging your skin and polluting the planet, warns a new scientific review that exposes the widespread presence of microplastics and nanoplastics in cosmetics and the growing evidence of their harmful effects.

Published in Cosmetics, the review “Microplastics in Cosmetics: Emerging Risks for Skin Health and the Environment” delivers a stark assessment of how these particles infiltrate the body, disrupt skin health, contaminate ecosystems, and evade regulation while urging the cosmetics industry and policymakers to act before the problem escalates further.

Widespread use of microplastics in cosmetic products

Microplastics, solid synthetic polymer particles under 5 millimeters, and their smaller counterparts, nanoplastics under one micrometer, are now recognized as common additives in many personal care items. They are deliberately incorporated as exfoliants, film formers, and texture enhancers in both rinse-off and leave-on products. The review underscores that leave-on formulations, such as foundations, lipsticks, and eye makeup, are of particular concern because they remain in prolonged contact with the skin, increasing the likelihood of dermal absorption.

While microplastics have long been scrutinized for their environmental impact, the review points out that cosmetic-related exposure is not limited to intentional ingredients. Secondary microplastics can be generated through packaging wear, shedding synthetic fibers from applicators, or the breakdown of other product components over time. These particles are small enough to pass through wastewater systems, entering natural ecosystems and potentially cycling back into the human body through food, water, and air.

The European Union’s 2023 restriction on intentionally added microplastics is an important step forward, yet the authors highlight that regulatory definitions are inconsistent, and many products continue to evade oversight. A 2022 market analysis cited in the review revealed that 87% of tested cosmetic products from major European brands still contained microplastics, underscoring the need for broader and more uniform policy action worldwide.

Skin penetration and health risks under the microscope

One of the most pressing issues addressed by this study is the potential for microplastics to penetrate the skin barrier and interact with human cells. Evidence shows that particles in the nano range, as well as microplastics up to six micrometers, can be internalized by keratinocytes, the primary cells in the outer layer of the skin. Once inside, they may disrupt cellular functions, trigger inflammatory responses, and compromise the skin’s natural defense mechanisms.

The review compiles data linking microplastic exposure to skin barrier dysfunction, oxidative stress, and alterations in the skin microbiome. These changes can accelerate skin aging, exacerbate existing dermatological conditions, and potentially set the stage for more serious outcomes such as chronic inflammation or carcinogenesis. Mechanistic studies cited in the paper point to pathways involving inflammasome activation, DNA damage, and mitochondrial dysfunction, all of which warrant closer investigation.

While ingestion and inhalation remain the most studied exposure routes for microplastics, the authors argue that dermal contact, especially from daily cosmetic use, is an underexplored yet highly relevant pathway. Given the cumulative nature of microplastic exposure from multiple sources, the dermatological effects may be part of a larger systemic health burden.

Regulation, research gaps, and the push for safer alternatives

The authors identify several critical shortcomings in the current regulatory landscape. Many countries have implemented partial bans on microbeads, the most visible form of microplastics, in rinse-off products. However, these measures often exclude nanoplastics and fail to address the broad spectrum of polymers used in leave-on formulations. The lack of standardized testing methods and harmonized definitions makes it difficult to monitor compliance or assess true exposure levels.

The review also calls attention to the scarcity of in vivo studies that directly examine the skin effects of microplastics under realistic exposure conditions. Most existing research has been conducted in vitro, limiting the ability to translate findings into concrete risk assessments for consumers. Without robust human data, regulators face challenges in setting safe exposure thresholds or determining which product categories pose the greatest risk.

In view of these challenges, the authors advocate for a multi-pronged approach. This includes advancing analytical technologies to detect and characterize microplastics in complex cosmetic matrices, conducting longitudinal studies on real-world usage patterns, and developing biodegradable or biopolymer-based alternatives that can match the performance of synthetic microplastics without the associated health and environmental risks.

They also urge the cosmetics industry to take proactive measures by phasing out high-risk ingredients ahead of regulatory mandates. Such shifts would not only protect consumer health but also position brands as leaders in sustainability and corporate responsibility. Collaborative efforts between dermatologists, toxicologists, environmental scientists, and product developers are seen as essential to creating safer formulations and more transparent labeling practices.