Martine Rose appointed Balenciaga creative director as Kering seeks fresh ideas

British designer Martine Rose is taking ​over as creative director at Balenciaga, parent ​Kering said on Friday, replacing Pierpaolo Piccioli after only ‌16 ​months in the role. Rose's appointment is the third creative leadership shake-up in a month at Kering brands as the French luxury group's CEO, Luca de Meo, tries ‌to restore growth after a bruising three-year slowdown that hit its biggest label Gucci particularly hard.

Rose, 45, is a menswear designer who founded her eponymous label in London in 2007 and later worked at Balenciaga for three years under then ‌creative director Demna, who now leads Gucci. "It is a true privilege to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga, ‌a House with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit," said Rose.

De Meo said Rose's "connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the House." In his 10 years at Balenciaga, Demna transformed the Spanish label, infusing it with a ⁠dark, dystopian ​aesthetic and producing viral streetwear hits, ⁠such as chunky, distressed sneakers that fuelled sales.

Piccioli, 59, known for colourful haute couture gowns, tried to take the fashion house in a ⁠new direction but the former Valentino creative director's designs received mixed reviews from fashion critics. Rose was born in Croydon, south London, and ​her designs are inspired by 1990s rave culture and street style blending high and low fashion, more in line ⁠with Kering's aim to attract a new generation of shoppers. Her brand has collaborated with Nike and with cult skate brand Supreme.

In an Instagram ⁠post ​after the announcement, Piccioli thanked his teams, saying: "Life is a journey and each chapter exists to make way for the next." Appointed before de Meo took over and began a complete overhaul of Kering, Piccioli only presented three ⁠ready-to-wear collections and one haute couture line in his short time at Balenciaga.

Kering has yet to announce a new creative ⁠director at Saint Laurent, its ⁠second-biggest brand, to replace Anthony Vaccarello who resigned in October after a decade leading the Parisian fashion label. Alexander McQueen is also currently without a creative director after Kering said Sean ‌McGirr was stepping ‌down.